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Light Requirements:
Vandaceous -3,000 fc to 2,000 fc
of light worked into full sun.
Southern exposure full sun in
winter and outside for summer.
(Warm Grower) Cattleya - 2500 fc
(yellows) to 2000 fc (white and
lavender). South facing. Minimum.
4 hours direct sun (Intermediate
to Warm Grower)
Cymbidium - 3000 fc to 2000 fc
South to Southeast facing. Cool
grower - leave outside in fall as
late as safe from frost.
Phalaenopsis - Southeastern
exposure of filtered south window
or partially shaded greenhouse.
(Warm Grower)
Paphiopedilum - Eastern exposure,
shaded. Southern exposure or
filtered Western exposure.
Intermediate temperatures -
requirements vary by species -
please ask for information.
Dendrobiums - Much variety in
growing needs. Please ask for
information.
Odontoglossum and Miltoniopsis -
"Cool" growers - need a way to
keep them cool in summer!
Gravel pans and grow lights
augment "in home" growing space.
Mixes for Orchids:
Vandaceous -
Large fir bark or tree fern chunks
or volcanic rock in Florida pot or
basket.
Cattleyas and Phalaenopsis - 4
parts medium bark, 2 parts medium
charcoal, 1 part course perlite or
fine volcanic rock.
Paphiopedilums - Fine bark, fine
charcoal, course sand, milled
sphagnum or course peat.
Cymbidium - Equal parts of fine
and medium bark, with added peat
or milled sphagnum, palco
(redwood) fiber, and perlite or
course sand.
Cool Growers - Same as Cattleyas
and Phalaenopsis, but all media
are fine grade.
Note: - Fine grade media also good
for all seedlings. Keep pots as
small as possible.
Watering:
- (Adjust watering to your mix and
climate)
Vandaceous -Mist daily, water dry.
Need more fertilizer than
Cattleyas.
Phalaenopsis - Crown must be dry
by 4 P.M. to avoid rot. Water when
almost dry. Need more fertilizer
than Cattleyas.
Cattleyas - Water when dry. Mist
if roots are exposed, fertilize
every other watering during
growing season.
Paphiopedilums - Keep evenly moist
but not wet. Fertilize lightly -
add dolomitic lime 3 to 4 times
yearly to sweeten mix.
Cymbidium - Keep evenly moist but
not wet. Mist daily outside in
summer to cool. Heavy feeders -
add Osmocote in spring and Mag Amp
in fall.
Slabbed plants - Mist daily. Water
twice a week, thoroughly wetting
roots and pad. Fertilize during
any active growth period.
Note: - All orchids should be well
flushed once a month with clear
water to remove excess salts.
Containers for Orchid Growing:
Vandaceous - Basket or Florida
pot.
Cattleyas - Terra Cotta or white
plastic pot.
Cymbidium - Deep, black nursery
pots or plastic-lined deep terra
cotta pots.
Phalaenopsis - White plastic
azalea pots.
Dendrobium - Terra cotta pots.
Pesticides, Bacteriacide and
Fungicide for Orchids:
Always
Inspect
you plants,
it is
best to treat your orchids as soon
as you see a problem. Then
continue an established routine of
preventative treatment with
pesticides, fungicide and
bactericide.
Insecticides -Develop a monthly
spraying program to keep those
pests away. We regularly use
Malathion™,
Orthene™,
Safer's Insecticidal Soap (liquid)
as needed. Neem Oil works well.
Identify your pest problem and
consult with your local Garden
Store as there are many different
over the counter pesticides.
Fungicides:
There are so many brands that are
readily available, we use Aliette™,
Physan 20™,
Dithane™.
In the hot summer months, consider
spraying your orchids more
frequently, inspect your plants
for signs of infection, Otherwise,
spray your orchids monthly. Again,
consider developing a regimen that
uses alternating products.
One product may
work better for you than another.
Alternate sprays because one item
may not be effective against all
insects or fungus. It is important
to have a consistent routine. It
is difficult to rid your orchids
of an infestation, so be diligent
in your efforts. Don’t forget to
use clean tools to reduce the risk
of spreading diseases from one
plant to another.
Most
importantly, decide whether
pesticides and fungicides are
right for you. Only you can decide
how this will affect your
environment. Remember, these
products should be used with care.
All of us
experience a bout with an insect
or fungus problem at one time or
another. So don’t get discouraged.
It takes a little work to keep
your orchids healthy and happy.
Good luck!
Safety
Tips:
Any pesticide or fungicide must
be used with great care. These are
toxic products. Always follow
the label directions. Protect
yourself while using these
products; wear gloves, masks, etc.
Remove pets from the area.
Repotting Time Intervals (after
flowering):
Paphiopedilums - Yearly
Cool Growers - 1 to 2 years in the
late fall
Catts and Phals - every 2 years
Cymbidiums - 2 to 3 years as early
in spring as possible
Vandaceous - Correct mix as needed
without root disturbance.
Note: - Excellent drainage is a
MUST for healthy roots.
Orchid Fertilizing Schedule For
Potted and Basketed Plants:
Spring - 30-10-10 alternated
with organics such as fish
emulsion or liquid seaweed.
Cymbidiums also require osmocote
in March.
Summer - Balanced fertilizer
10-10-10 or 20-20-20 as directed,
EXCEPT Cymbidiums change to
10-30-20 on July 15.
Fall - Blossom Booster - 10-30-20.
Cymbidiums require Mag Amp in
September. Nobile Dendrobiums
prefer 0-20-20 (mix from Sudbury)
Winter - The Dark Months -
Balanced fertilizer such as
20-20-20 half as strong and half
as often as in summer.
Slabbed Plants: All Seasons - Add
weak fertilizer solution to mist
once a week in winter, twice a
week in growing months.
Note: - A regular fertilization
schedule is necessary when using
straight tree fern, charcoal or
volcanic rock and these media
contain no nutrients
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